LFW: City of the Future

Izzy McCormac

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London Fashion week 2018, first for fur-free, a catalyst of sustainability in one of the biggest fashion cities. No wonder opening fashion week was BFC Newgen award winner, Richard Malone, his work setting standards high, with Silk sourced from one of the most sustainable places in the world. The Silk manipulated into two pieces, cinched by drawstring along with balloon sleeves- an 80’s power move seen in other collections such as Preen by Thornton Bregazzi and Simone Rocha.
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Shoulder pads and exaggerated silhouettes were seen throughout the week from designers such as Gareth Pugh, his collection described as ‘creative extremism’ and Christopher Kane's collection, with suits broadening the female form. Gareth Pugh's collection particular striking with the red and black colour palette ( not usually one to be associated with Spring Ready to Wear) with pieces including PVC trench coats and patterned morphsuits. During Day 2 we also got a look into young British designer Molly Goddard's collection, inspired by a Mediterranean vacation, however, I felt disappointed. Although her dresses were beautiful, they lacked a change from previous collections and the colour palette seemed slightly off for Spring 2019.

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Fashion East, Pam Hogg and Matty Bovan were a few of the designers, who really stood out with experimental pattern cutting and extravagant headdresses. Whereas big houses such as Burberry, Victoria Beckham and Ederm stuck to more classic looks, featuring lots of tailoring, perhaps not pushing the brand aesthetics far enough - evident In Burberry’s collection featuring far too many looks without quality content.

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The week finished off with On|Off, Nabil Nayal and Richard Quinn. Nayals collection being his first and London Fashion Week, taking inspiration from the British library, merging type design encased in layers of pleats and tucks. The sheer organzas highlighting the depth of the ‘story’.

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Richard Quinn arguably one of the hottest designers showing at fashion week created gradients from the deep and dark, tutus with black ski masks seamlessly flowing into a collection of must-have florals.

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As a whole London Fashion week was dominated by young designers. The city is known for some of the best designers surfacing and bringing with them important agendas, with designers like Quinn (who not that long ago was studying Art and Design at Central Saint Martins) raising the awareness of under-funding of our sector of education. We saw designers engaging with the future of design, London is the future of design.